Florida Home Inspection Checklist for Buyers: What Gets Checked, and What to Do Yourself

What is included in a home inspection in Florida?

This Florida home inspection checklist is built for buyers. It shows what a licensed inspector looks at in each part of the house, what is left out on purpose, and what you should handle yourself before, during and after the visit. It follows the two rulebooks that shape an inspection here: the state's standards of practice for home inspectors and the InterNACHI Standards of Practice.

Start with the law. Section 468.8311 of the Florida Statutes defines home inspection services as a limited visual examination of the readily accessible installed systems and components of a home: the structure, electrical system, HVAC system, roof covering, plumbing system, interior components, exterior components and site conditions that affect the structure. The goal, in the statute's words, is a written professional opinion of the condition of the home. The same section counts single-family houses, duplexes, triplexes, quadruplexes, manufactured and modular homes, and condo or co-op units as homes, but not the common areas of a condominium or cooperative.

Three words in that definition explain most of what follows. Limited means nobody is taking the house apart. Visual means walls stay closed and finishes stay in place. Readily accessible means the inspector examines what can be reached safely, without moving a houseful of furniture, cutting drywall or stepping on roof tile that could crack underfoot. Within those limits, tools extend what the eye can see: a moisture meter, a thermal camera, an outlet and GFCI tester, a ladder and, for roofs that should not be walked, a drone.

What the report has to contain

Section 468.8323 requires a written report for every paid inspection. It has to identify the systems and components that, in the inspector's professional opinion, are significantly deficient or near the end of their service lives, and explain why when the reason is not obvious. It also has to list any system or component that was present but not inspected, along with the reason it was skipped. The statute adds that the inspector is not required to estimate repair costs.

That list of items not inspected is the section buyers most often skim past, and it deserves a first read. A locked shed, an attic hatch sealed with paint, a water heater buried behind boxes or a roof too fragile to walk all change what the report can tell you.

Florida Rule 61-30 and the InterNACHI Standards of Practice

Florida licenses home inspectors through the Department of Business and Professional Regulation, and the standards of practice for those inspectors sit in Chapter 61-30 of the Florida Administrative Code, Rules 61-30.801 through 61-30.811. There is one general rule, followed by rules for structure, electrical systems, HVAC systems, roof covering, the plumbing system, interior components, exterior components and site conditions that affect the structure.

The general rule, 61-30.801, sets the ground rules. The inspection reports on the visible and apparent condition of installed systems at the time of the visit. Where a house has several identical components, such as twenty windows of the same type, the inspector may examine a representative sample. Deficiencies get a recommendation for correction, monitoring or further evaluation. The rule says plainly that a home inspection does not include the prediction of future conditions. It also allows an inspector to offer services beyond the minimum and to leave systems out, but only when the inspector and client agree to the exclusion in writing.

InterNACHI, the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors, publishes its own Home Inspection Standards of Practice, last revised in October 2022. It describes the inspection as non-invasive and visual, and it defines a material defect as an issue that may have a significant, adverse impact on the value of the property or that poses an unreasonable risk to people. One line in that definition surprises buyers: a component being near, at or past the end of its normal life is not, by itself, a material defect. Each of its ten system sections lists what the inspector shall inspect, what to describe, what to report as in need of correction and what is not required.

Where the two rulebooks differ

For most areas, the state rule and InterNACHI line up. A few differences matter in practice. Florida's interior rule lists household appliances, while InterNACHI does not require them. Florida's electrical rule names the interior components of main panels and subpanels, while InterNACHI does not require the inspector to remove panel covers. Florida's HVAC rule names condensate overflow warning or shutoff devices, a detail that matters in a state where air handlers sit in closets and attics. And Florida's structure rule calls for probing wood where deterioration is visible or suspected. A Florida inspection has to meet the state rule, and a careful inspector meets both.

Roof and attic checklist

Under Rule 61-30.805, the roof covering includes the roofing materials, flashings, skylights, chimneys and roof penetrations, roof drainage, attic ventilation and attic insulation. The rule lets an inspector stay off a roof that is too steep, has no safe access, is wet or storm-damaged, or could be damaged by foot traffic. That last point covers a lot of South Florida, where concrete and clay tile can crack under a boot. On those roofs, we inspect from a ladder at the eaves and by drone instead of walking across the field of tile.

• The type of covering on every section of the roof: shingle, concrete or clay tile, metal, or a low-slope membrane or built-up roof.
• Cracked, slipped or missing tiles, curled or creased shingles, and loose ridge and hip pieces.
• Flashing where the roof meets walls, around skylights and at every vent pipe, including the collars and boots that seal them.
• Low-slope sections over carports, porches, Florida rooms and additions, where seams and standing water deserve a closer look.
• Gutters, downspouts and where the water ends up once it leaves them.
• Soffit and fascia along the eaves, where roof leaks and animal entry often show first.
• Observed signs of an active leak, which InterNACHI lists as something the inspector must report.

In the attic

• Trusses or rafters for damage, cut members, sagging and old water stains.
• The underside of the roof deck for dark stains, soft or delaminated sheathing, and daylight where there should be none.
• The type and approximate depth of insulation, which InterNACHI asks the inspector to describe.
• Ventilation through soffits, ridge vents, gable vents or powered fans, and bath fans that dump air into the attic instead of outdoors.
• Straps or clips at the top of the walls, where they are visible.
• Ductwork, and the air handler and its pan if the A/C sits up there.

What a roof check will not give you is a date. InterNACHI does not require the inspector to predict service life or confirm that the covering was fastened correctly, and the Florida rule rules out predicting future conditions. If an insurer is asking how many years the roof has left, that question belongs to a roof condition inspection, which documents remaining useful life. Citizens, for example, asks for documentation of at least five years of remaining life on soft roofs older than 25 years and hard roofs older than 50.

Exterior, structure and lot checklist

Three state rules cover the outside of the house: 61-30.810 for exterior components, 61-30.811 for site conditions that affect the structure, and 61-30.802 for the structure itself. Many South Florida houses are concrete block finished in stucco and sitting on a concrete slab, although wood-frame houses, upper floors and additions are common too. Block and stucco hold up well to wind, but they show moisture and movement in their own ways, so the walk around the outside is slow and deliberate.

• Stucco and other wall finishes: cracks, bulges, hollow-sounding patches, stains and areas that were repaired and repainted.
• Rust stains or spalling, where concrete flakes away from corroding steel inside it, on columns, beams, balcony edges and slab edges, especially near salt water.
• Eaves, soffits and fascia, where they can be reached from the ground.
• Every exterior door, and a representative number of windows from the outside.
• Balconies, porches, stoops, steps and decks, along with their railings and the gaps between balusters.
• Walkways, patios and driveways that lead to the entrances.
• Wood touching soil or mulch, which InterNACHI asks the inspector to report because it invites rot and termites.

Structure

• The slab, walls, ceilings and framing for signs of movement, such as diagonal cracks at door and window corners, doors that are out of square and floors that slope.
• Probing of wood where deterioration is visible or suspected, as Florida's structure rule requires.
• Framing that was cut, notched or drilled in a way that may weaken it.

Lot and drainage

• Ground that slopes toward the house, and low spots that still hold water after a summer storm.
• Downspouts and A/C condensate lines that empty right against the foundation.
• Trees, palms, shrubs and vines touching the walls or hanging over the roof.
• Retaining walls that could affect the structure.

The exterior rule also draws a firm line around what is not included: geological and hydrological conditions, erosion control, fences, outbuildings, and swimming pools, seawalls, break-walls, boat lifts and docks. If the house backs onto a canal, the seawall and dock are a separate question for a marine contractor or an engineer.

Hurricane features checklist: windows, shutters and garage door

Here is a gap many buyers do not expect. Both Florida's exterior rule and InterNACHI's exterior section list shutters among the things an inspector is not required to inspect, and InterNACHI also leaves out checking for safety glazing. In South Florida, protection on windows and doors matters for safety and for insurance, so we include visible shutters and impact-rated openings in our home inspections and say clearly what we could and could not confirm.

• Windows and sliding doors: whether they open, close and lock, cracked glass, damaged frames, and fogging between panes, which InterNACHI treats as evidence of a failed seal.
• Impact glass: whether labels or etched marks are still on the glass. On site, they are often the only proof of a rating.
• Shutters: the type (accordion, roll-down, storm panels, colonial or Bahama), bent or missing tracks, accordions that will not slide, and whether removable panels and their fasteners are on the property.
• Entry and French doors: weatherstripping, thresholds, and water stains on the floor or baseboard just inside.
• The garage door: operation with the opener, the photo-electric safety sensors that InterNACHI requires reporting when they fail, and whether a wind-load label or bracing is present.
• Skylights: cracked domes, failed seals and stained drywall around the well.
• From the attic: straps or clips that tie the roof to the walls, where they can be seen.

A home inspection describes these features, but it does not grade them for your insurer. That is the job of the wind mitigation form, OIR-B1-1802 (Rev. 04/26), which records the roof covering, roof deck attachment, roof-to-wall connections, roof shape, secondary water resistance and opening protection, and which can stay valid for up to five years if the structure does not change. Buyers often add a wind mitigation inspection to the same visit, because the insurance quote they are about to receive depends on it.

Electrical checklist

Florida's electrical rule, 61-30.803, lists the service entrance conductors and drip loop, cables and raceways, the main service equipment and disconnects, service grounding, the interior components of main panels and subpanels, conductors and overcurrent devices, readily accessible fixtures, switches and receptacles, ground fault and arc fault protection, the amperage and voltage rating of the service, the wiring method, and smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. Because the rule names the inside of the panel, the cover comes off when it is safe to remove it.

• The service drop or underground service, the meter base, the mast and its clearance above the roof.
• The main disconnect and its rating, if labeled, plus the panel's brand, age clues and general condition.
• Inside the panel: two wires under a breaker made for one, scorched or melted insulation, rust, signs of water entry and open slots without filler plates.
• Panel brands with a history of concerns, such as Federal Pacific Electric and Zinsco, which turn up in homes of the 1960s and 1970s.
• Solid aluminum branch-circuit wiring, used from the mid-1960s to the early 1970s, which InterNACHI requires the inspector to report when it is readily visible.
• GFCI protection where water and electricity meet: kitchen counters, bathrooms, the garage, the laundry area and outdoor outlets.
• AFCI breakers, tested with their own test buttons where possible.
• A representative number of outlets for power, polarity and grounding, plus switches and light fixtures.
• Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors, which InterNACHI asks the inspector to report when they are missing.
• Outdoor disconnects for the A/C and pool equipment, where salt air and sprinkler spray speed up rust.

The rule also lists what an inspector is not required to do: measure amperage, voltage or impedance, perform a load calculation, insert tools into electrical components or confirm that circuit labels are accurate. Generators, solar collectors, battery storage, security alarms and low-voltage wiring are outside the standard. If you are buying an older home, expect the same panel to come up again on the insurer's 4-point inspection form.

Plumbing and water heater checklist

Rule 61-30.806 covers interior supply and distribution piping with its fixtures and faucets, the drain, waste and vent system, plumbing vents and flues, sumps, the materials used for the piping, water heating equipment and its energy source, and the main water and fuel shutoffs. It excludes wells, water conditioning systems, solar water heating, fire sprinklers, septic systems and irrigation. It also does not require testing shower pans for leaks, operating shutoff valves or judging the quality or quantity of the water supply.

• Supply pipe material where visible: copper, CPVC, PEX, galvanized steel in older homes, or polybutylene, a gray plastic used from the late 1970s to the mid-1990s.
• Drain material: PVC in newer work, and cast iron in older homes, with rust, cracks and stains wherever a section is exposed.
• Water flow, which InterNACHI checks by running two fixtures at the same time.
• Every sink, tub and shower for drainage, and every toilet for flushing, leaks and a loose connection at the floor.
• Under every sink, around supply lines and at the base of tubs, showers and toilets, with a moisture meter where something looks off.
• The water heater: type and fuel, capacity if labeled, the temperature and pressure relief valve and its discharge pipe, gas venting where it applies, corrosion at the fittings, and the drain pan when the heater sits in an attic or closet.
• The main water shutoff, so you know where it is before you ever need it.
• Exterior hose bibs, and the laundry exhaust where it is visible.

Some South Florida homes, especially on larger lots, rely on a private well or a septic system. Neither is part of the standard inspection. If the listing mentions either one, plan on a specialist and ask the seller for maintenance and pump-out records.

A/C and HVAC checklist for Florida homes

In South Florida the A/C runs for much of the year, and it controls humidity as much as temperature. Florida's HVAC rule, 61-30.804, covers the heating and cooling equipment, ductwork, mechanical ventilation, the energy source and cooling method, and the presence of condensate overflow warning or shutoff devices. It leaves out heat exchangers, humidifiers and dehumidifiers, electronic air filters, UV lights and internal parts such as coils and pans, and it does not ask the inspector to judge whether the system is sized right, whether air is balanced from room to room or what the indoor air quality is.

• The system run from the thermostat, with the temperature difference between return air and supply air measured to confirm it is cooling.
• The condenser outside: coil fins, rust on the cabinet, a level pad, room around it to breathe, insulation on the refrigerant line and the electrical disconnect.
• The air handler: where it sits (closet, garage or attic), rust, water standing in the pan and the condition of the filter.
• The condensate drain line, and a float switch or secondary pan where one is installed to stop an overflow.
• Visible ducts and registers: loose connections, sweating, and dark staining on the ceiling around vents.
• The thermostat's location and response.
• Heat, usually electric heat strips or a heat pump here, operated with normal controls when conditions allow.
• The data plates on both units, which help date the equipment for the 4-point form.

InterNACHI does not require the inspector to run the A/C when it is below 65°F outside, and Florida's rule allows skipping operation when the outdoor temperature could damage the system. That rarely blocks a test in South Florida, but on a cool winter morning the report should say so if it happens. Refrigerant charge, duct leakage testing and the inside of the coil are jobs for an HVAC contractor. A musty smell from the vents or staining around the air handler is a reason to consider a mold inspection with air sampling.

Interior, kitchen and appliance checklist

Rule 61-30.807 lists walls, ceilings and floors, steps, stairways and railings, countertops and a representative number of cabinets, garage doors, doors and windows with their locks and latches, insulation and vapor retarders in unfinished spaces, fireplaces, vent systems and household appliances. Appliances are run with their normal operating controls, and the inspector decides first whether it is safe to operate them. The rule excludes paint and wallpaper, carpet, central vacuums and recreational facilities, and it does not require opening windows that are painted shut or blocked, testing microwave leakage or running self-cleaning oven cycles.

• Ceilings and walls: water stains, sagging drywall, cracks, and fresh paint in one isolated spot, which is worth asking about.
• Floors: cracked tiles, hollow-sounding tiles, and soft or cupped wood and laminate.
• Interior doors that rub, swing on their own or will not latch.
• A representative number of windows opened, closed and locked from the inside.
• Stairs, handrails and guards, including loose balusters and wide gaps.
• Kitchen: cabinets and counters, leaks under the sink, and the range, cooktop, oven, dishwasher, disposal, built-in microwave and range hood.
• Bathrooms: exhaust fans, caulk and grout at tubs and showers, and soft subfloor near toilets.
• Moisture readings around tubs, showers, windows, exterior doors and the A/C closet, with a thermal camera to spot patterns worth checking.

Occupied houses have blind spots. Inspectors do not move furniture, stored goods, rugs or clothing to reach what is behind them, so a garage packed to the ceiling or a bed pushed against a wall can hide a stain or an outlet. The report should list those areas, and the final walkthrough before closing is your chance to look once the rooms are empty.

What is not included in a home inspection

InterNACHI's exclusions are a long list, and most of it is common sense once you read it. The inspector is not required to determine code compliance, the presence of mold, mildew or fungus, the presence of pests, radon or other airborne hazards, air quality, or environmental hazards such as lead paint, asbestos or toxic drywall. The standard also excludes the remaining life of any component, repair cost estimates, the property's insurability, research into the home's history, and the age of construction or whether a part of the house is original or added later. Florida's rule adds that the inspection does not predict future conditions.

None of this means those subjects are ignored. If we see staining that suggests mold, damage that looks like termite activity or a drain that backs up, it goes in the report with a recommendation for further evaluation, which is exactly what Rule 61-30.801 asks for. What the standard leaves out is the specialist finding: the lab result, the pest identification, the camera footage of the sewer line.

Code compliance and permits

Buyers often assume a home inspection confirms the house was built to code or that every addition was permitted. It does neither. A home inspector reports on condition, not on whether a garage conversion had a permit in 1998. Permit history lives with the city or county building department, and many South Florida jurisdictions let you search it online by address. An open or expired permit, or a room that never appears in the records, is worth raising with your agent and the title company well before closing.

Florida add-ons to ask about: 4-point, wind mitigation, WDO and sewer scope

Most buyers in South Florida need more than the home inspection, usually because an insurer wants specific reports before it will bind a policy. These can often be done in the same visit, which saves a second appointment during a tight inspection period.

4-point inspection

A 4-point inspection reports the age, type and condition of the roof, electrical, plumbing and HVAC on a form your insurer reads. Citizens Property Insurance says a four-point inspection is mandatory on Personal Residential Multiperil applications for homes more than 20 years old, applied to new business, and the report must be dated within the 12 months before the application. Private carriers set their own limits, often somewhere between 20 and 30 years.

Wind mitigation

The wind mitigation report is optional, but insurers have to offer credits for qualifying features under Section 627.0629, and the report is how those features get on file. On a home you are buying, it lets the first insurance quote reflect the house as it is. For a full view of how these two reports work as a pair, read our guide to the 4-point and wind mitigation together.

Roof condition

When the roof is older, an insurer may ask for its remaining useful life. Under Section 627.7011(5), an insurer may not refuse to issue or renew a policy solely because of the age of a roof under 15 years, and for a roof at least 15 years old it must let the homeowner have it inspected, at the homeowner's expense, and may not refuse solely on age if that inspection shows five or more years of useful life left.

Mold inspection

If the home inspection turns up staining, high moisture readings or a musty smell, a mold inspection with air or surface samples sent to a lab is the next step. Our guide to mold warning signs and when to test explains when sampling makes sense. We perform the inspection and sampling, not the cleanup, so the results stay independent.

WDO (termite) report

Under Section 482.226 of the Florida Statutes, a wood-destroying organism inspection done for a real estate transaction, when a fee is charged or a written report is requested, has to be performed by a licensed pest control business and reported on the state's form, FDACS Form 13645. Some lenders ask for it, and many buyers want it anyway. Ask us whether it can be added to your appointment, and read what a Florida WDO inspection covers for the details.

Sewer scope

A sewer scope runs a camera through the main drain line to the street or septic tank. It is most useful in older homes with cast iron drains or houses with large trees near the line. Ask us whether it can be added.

Pool and spa

Pools and spas are excluded from both standards. Florida's Residential Swimming Pool Safety Act requires a new residential pool to have at least one safety feature to pass final inspection: a barrier that isolates the pool from the house, an approved safety cover, exit alarms on doors and windows that open to the pool, self-closing and self-latching doors, or an alarm that sounds when someone enters the water. If you have small children, check which of these the house has. For the pool shell and equipment, ask us whether a pool evaluation can be added, or call a pool contractor.

Buyer's checklist before inspection day

A buyer's inspection checklist starts the day the contract is signed. Most of what goes wrong with inspections is not a hidden defect but lost time: a water heater nobody could reach, a power company that shut off service, an insurer that wanted a form nobody ordered.

• Book the inspection right away. Your contract sets a fixed number of days for inspections, and specialist follow-ups need time inside that window. Here is how the inspection period works in a Florida purchase.
• Call your insurance agent the same day and ask which reports the insurer will want: a 4-point, a wind mitigation report, a roof report or all three.
• Ask for the seller's disclosures, including the flood disclosure required by Section 689.302, which must be delivered at or before the time the contract is signed. It asks whether the seller knows of flooding that damaged the property, filed a flood claim with an insurer or the National Flood Insurance Program, or received federal flood assistance such as FEMA aid.
• Look up the flood zone on FEMA's Flood Map Service Center and talk to your agent about flood coverage. The state disclosure form itself reminds buyers that homeowners' policies do not cover flood damage.
• Ask the seller for the age and paperwork of the big items: roof permit, A/C installation, water heater, windows, shutters and any earlier wind mitigation or 4-point reports.
• Confirm that water, electricity and gas, if the house has it, will be on, with pilot lights lit. Inspectors are not required to turn on systems that are shut down or to light pilots.
• Ask the listing agent to clear access to the attic hatch, the electrical panel, the water heater, the air handler, the garage, side gates, sheds and pool equipment.
• Search the permit records for the address, or ask your agent to, so open or expired permits surface early.
• Buying a condo? Request the association documents now, since the unit inspection does not cover common areas. Our guide to milestone inspections for condo buyers explains which building reports to ask for.

Questions to ask when you book an inspector

• Are you licensed in Florida? You can check any home inspector's license on the DBPR lookup at myfloridalicense.com.
• Which standards do you follow? Florida's Rule 61-30 applies to every licensed inspector. Ask whether they also follow a professional standard such as InterNACHI's.
• Can I see a sample report? Look for photos, plain explanations and a clear summary.
• What is excluded? Rule 61-30.801 allows exclusions only when the client agrees in writing, so they should be in the agreement you sign.
• When will I get the report? Make sure it lands well inside your inspection period.

Florida law also protects you from two conflicts of interest. Under Section 468.8319, an inspector or the inspector's company may not perform or offer repairs on a home they wrote the report for, and may not accept a job where the fee or the findings depend on the report's conclusions or on the sale closing. If price is part of your comparison, here is what drives the cost of a home inspection in Florida.

Inspection day: what to bring and what to ask

You are welcome to attend, and it is worth it. A single-family home usually takes about two to four hours, depending on size, age and condition, while condos and townhomes take less. If you cannot stay for the whole visit, come for the end, when the inspector walks you through what matters.

1. Outside first. The roof, walls, windows, doors, grading and drainage, while the light is good and before anyone tracks through the house.
2. Up into the attic. Framing, deck, insulation, ventilation, visible straps and any equipment up there.
3. The systems. Electrical panel, plumbing and water heater, A/C and heat, each run with its normal controls.
4. Room by room. Walls, ceilings, floors, doors, windows, kitchen, bathrooms, laundry and garage, with moisture readings where they make sense.
5. Insurance forms, if ordered. The 4-point and wind mitigation photos and measurements are taken during the same pass.
6. The walkthrough. The inspector shows you the main findings, where the shutoffs are and what needs a specialist.

What to bring

• The seller's disclosure and any earlier reports, so you can ask about each item they mention.
• Notes from your showings: the stain you noticed, the door that stuck, the smell in the guest bathroom.
• Your phone, to photograph the main water shutoff, the electrical panel, the A/C filter size and the data plates.
• Your agent's contact details, in case a question about the contract comes up on site.

Questions worth asking on site

• Which findings are safety issues, and which are repairs or routine maintenance?
• Which systems look close to the end of their service lives?
• What could you not inspect today, and why?
• Which items need a licensed electrician, plumber, roofer or HVAC contractor to evaluate?
• Did anything suggest past water intrusion, or repairs that were covered up?
• Is anything here likely to come up on the 4-point or the wind mitigation form?

Keep your expectations in line with the standard. The inspector will not tell you whether to buy the house, what it is worth or what each repair will cost. InterNACHI's standard says the inspection does not determine market value or whether the purchase is advisable, and Florida law does not require cost estimates. What you should leave with is a clear picture of the house's condition and a list of questions for the right specialists.

After the report: what buyers do next

Our home inspection reports arrive within 24 hours, and insurance reports usually the same day. The days that follow are where an inspection pays off or gets wasted, so treat this as its own checklist.

• Read the summary first, then the list of items that were present but not inspected.
• Sort the findings into four groups: safety, repair before closing, budget for soon, and routine maintenance.
• Get written estimates from licensed contractors for anything large, while you are still inside the inspection period.
• Decide with your agent whether to ask for repairs, a credit or a price change, or to cancel under the terms of your contract.
• Send the 4-point and wind mitigation reports to your insurance agent right away, so coverage can be bound before closing.
• Schedule any follow-ups the report recommends, such as a mold inspection, a WDO report or a sewer scope, before the deadline.
• At the final walkthrough, confirm that agreed repairs were done, ask for invoices and permits, and run the A/C, the water and the appliances one more time.
• Keep the report. It doubles as a maintenance plan and a record of the house's condition on the day you bought it.

Every house has findings, including brand-new homes straight from the builder. The question is which ones change your decision, your price or your budget for the first year. For a sense of what tends to show up here and why, see the problems South Florida inspections turn up most often.

South Florida home inspection checklist: what changes by county and coast

The checklist is the same across the region, but the house in front of you changes with the county and the distance to the ocean. The Florida Building Code applies the High-Velocity Hurricane Zone to Miami-Dade and Broward counties only, and Palm Beach County sits outside it. That shows up most on the wind mitigation form and in the product approvals on roofs, windows and shutters.

Near the coast, salt air is the constant. It eats at A/C condenser coils, outdoor electrical disconnects, metal railings, shutter tracks and fasteners, and the steel inside concrete balconies and columns, so we look harder at all of them on homes close to the water. In older neighborhoods, houses from the 1950s through the 1970s are more likely to have the era-specific items on the electrical and plumbing lists, such as older panel brands, galvanized supply lines and cast iron drains. Newer subdivisions bring different questions, such as builder-grade fixtures and the paperwork for roofs and openings.

Condo buyers get a unit inspection that covers what is inside the walls of the unit, plus the A/C and water heater that serve it. The roof, structure and common areas belong to the association and its engineers, and Florida's definition of a home leaves common areas out. Whatever you are buying, we can tell you what is typical in your city before the visit.

The bottom line

A Florida home inspection follows a defined checklist: eight areas set by state law, detailed in Rule 61-30 and reinforced by the InterNACHI Standards of Practice. Knowing what is on that list, and what is not, lets you fill the gaps on purpose: a 4-point and wind mitigation report for the insurer, a WDO report or sewer scope when the house calls for it, and your own homework on permits, flood history and access. If you are buying in Broward, Miami-Dade or Palm Beach County, call or text (954) 297-0317 or send us a request with the address and your inspection deadline. You will get a firm price before anything is scheduled, and you can read more about our home inspections for South Florida buyers.

About the author

Peter Lemos, Certified Master Inspector®

Owner and lead inspector of Global Home Inspectors in Hollywood, FL. Peter holds InterNACHI certifications in wind mitigation, 4-point and mold inspection and has served Broward, Miami-Dade and Palm Beach counties since 2008.